Catcha.com FOOD

Nerovivo has arrived. And from the looks of it, it's slowly working its way towards being a force to be reckoned with. Partners Dino Pozzato and seasoned restaurateur Paolo Guiati - who previously owned restaurants in Phuket and Bangkok - might have just picked the precise time and place.Nestling in the foothills of Bukit Ceylon, and sitting pretty next to the equally fetching Bijan, Nerovivo has been packed solid since it opened its doors two months ago. It may look expensive and all with its sleek façade, but you will soon learn that deep pockets are not a requirement for enjoyment. In fact, Paolo insists that Nerovivo is NOT a fine dining restaurant, but rather a humble tratorria in the best of traditions.

Taking up one half of what was a colonial bungalow, the built-up itself is not large, but it does come complete with generous garden space, which has been fittingly transformed into a deck for outdoor dining. The concept is genially simple, clean and slightly raw; concrete blocks and pebbles tile the gateless driveway and the interior is a classy blend of dark browns and cream, divided by racks of boutique wines. Accent lighting appends warmth while the soft lull of Big Band tunes adds a touch of grace. And you can't miss Paolo, who also doubles as a terrifyingly attentive waiter, buzzing around the place.Nerovivo features authentic Northern and Southern Italian fare, although there is an excellent mix of all the good stuff from other regions. On weekdays, Nerovivo offers a buffet spread of hot and cold appetisers with a choice of main course and on Sunday there's brunch with prosecco - a selection of sweets and savouries - with sparkling wine of choice.

Head Chef Massimiliano Ranauro does the picking and starts us off with a rustic antipasto platter (RM56) a faultless combo of vitello tonnato, grilled seafood salad, marinated vegetables, pickles, bruschetta and cheese, Tuscan bread bruschetta, melted cheese and sautéed mushrooms. Fresh and tangy, the prawn, smoked salmon and tuna on rocket salad, with fennel scented vinaigrette (RM28) is much lighter, leaving ample room for mains.Seafood spaghetti in a light tomato sauce (RM38) has more seafood than actual pasta - which is a delightful surprise indeed. Although shiny and enticing with prawns, squid, mussels and crab, a little pinch of chilli flakes would render more excitement.Sicilian favourite grilled swordfish rolls stuffed with cheese and fine herbs on bruschetta and tomato salad (RM39) is something you don't see in every Italian restaurant. The rolls are crispy on the outside but soft and creamy on the inside while the herbs are subtle and deftly included. Couple it with the zesty tomato salad and you've got a winner right there. What's more intoxicating is Scotta Dito rack of lamb served with panzerotti (RM48). Infused with flavour, the meat is delicately seared, leaving it juicy, soft and smoky. It should be polished off while the panzerotti (ravioli like stuffed pasta) is still pillow soft and the lamb hot off the.

The trio flan (RM16) is a must try, an utterly divine selection of creme brulee, almond pannacotta and coffee and chocolate bunet. The creme brulee totally creams the competition - flawlessly smooth and skilfully tinged with lime, it goes on and on like a cheeky dream.